Kyobashi--a Japanese resto serving something other than sushi

Well, there's sushi too. Obviously. But it is true that in Paris, it's hard to come by a good Japanese place serving something other than sushi & brochettes. Unless it is in the area surrounding Rue St. Anne. And even at that, there is definitely something special about the parade that is the menu degustation at Kyobashi.

It is surely wonderful finding great restaurants in Paris thanks to other food blogs or reviews, but even better when a friend shows you one of their favorite haunts from a former neighborhood. This is how I came across Kyobashi. My dinner buddy this time around was one of my first friends in Paris, who is suffering, err, celebrating her 30th birthday this week.

We started with the special house cocktail--a concoction of white wine, almond syrup, and lemon, as drinking was clearly in order. Then easily decided on a pair of the aforementioned tasting menus. The hors d'oeuvre du jour was a combination of carrots, lemon and crispy fried sardines, accompanied by a seaweed salad. The salad was light, refreshing and a good start to the meal. I enjoyed the sauce on the sardines, but didn't appreciate the little guy's eyes staring at me through a thin layer of breading. I was a vegetarian for nearly 10 years, afterall.

We then received the tea of choice in this particular restaurant- a tea made with grilled rice. It is very subtle, and honestly doesn't really taste like tea, but the first time I had it, it only took me a mere two sips to fall in love. Following this was the salade kyobashi--a salad served with almost every menu, which is also quite refreshing, but has a bit of sour added into the sauce to make it interesting. Beautifully presented, as we're coming to expect.

 

Then was the quite traditional miso soup--what is great about this, is that 98 % of the miso soup in Paris tastes EXACTLY the same. I'm quite positive it comes from a prepackaged mix, and always has disappointingly tiny add-ins of tofu and seaweed. This soup, however, is clearly made in house, as it does not have that same artificial tastes, and the chunks of tofu and seaweed leaves are big and juicy. Miam!

Next up are the japanese omlette which taste, well, like omelettes, except with soy sauce ! MMM.

 

Then comes one of my most anticipated parts of the meal--the sesame laquered chicken wing. Seriously, I wish they sold buckets of these like at KFC. I would probably buy 2 dozen, and in my typical fashion, eat them as a saturday afternoon tailgate while watching the old men up the hill as they play petanque. Obviously the French version of Monday Night Football.

Now we have my second favorite part of the meal--agedashi tofu !! A semi-dense tofu lightly fried in rice flour. It is served with horseradish, crispy seaweed strings, and a soy broth that I could drink by the bottle-full. The combination of textures and strong and gentle tastes in this dish is seriously a special treat.

And my third favorite part of the meal ! wow ! trifecta ! This is tempura. You can find tempura at other japanese joints in town--but it tends to be soggy, and only with carrots and potatos. This elegantly presented combination was perfectly hot & crispy, as well as showcasing a nice variety. There was a large and juicy shrimp, a small piece of white fish, two green beans, a sweet potato, and beautifully crispy slice of pumpkin. mmm pumpkin tempura.

 

Next is the obligatory sushi. Only instead of generic, tasteless california rolls, we have a beautiful quality fish. Well cut, beautifully presented, and not one imperfect grain of rice.  

The meal finished with a choice of fruit or a scoop of ice cream--while normally craving green tea ice cream, I found myself on the brink of internal combustion. Also, it was my friend's brithday, and we had to have drinks afterwards, so I opted for the safer bowl of fruit.

 

Obviously, I am quite glad to have found Kyobashi. So many 'foreign' restaurants here only offer a small view of some vast culinary taditions, and these mcnuggets have been so altered to French taste, it becomes difficult to trace their origins. The only things missing in my hunt for japanese food favorites in Paris are a good avocado salad with that tangy, delectable dressing, and a light, crispy tempura maki. Until then, I will surely be daydreaming about a restaurant that serves both of these things on the coast of Maine.

I would definitely say that Kyobashi is worth going out of your way for. I have on a couple of occassions now, and have not once regretted it. It is also conveniently located next to the Rue de la Soif of the 11th--Rue Oberkampf, so it is an obvious choice for a great dinner before a night of bar hopping, and regretable decisions. There are so many great choices on the menu, that ordering one of the four tasting menus is an obvious bet, and if you get the Menu B, prepare for random sesame-laquered chicken wing cravings. Seriously, I need a bucket for my previously scheduled Top Chef marathon. Not that I watch reality TV. Especially not several episodes in a row, while craving chicken wings. 

Kyobashi

117 Rue Saint Maur

01 53 36 73 34

would advise making reservations if more than 2 people.